The Forgotten Ones

Posted on January 6, 2013 by alaskanarcticexpeditions

There is a group of men and women that have been overlooked in Arctic exploration history. They were hardy folks that didn’t seek fame or fortune and weren’t backed with enormous budgets by the royal family or the government. They didn’t dine with the king or queen, or the president, nor were they glorified for discovering a new land. They weren’t honored with large memorable sites after their deaths like many of the popular explorers were, and in fact, some were just buried in a wooden box built of ship lumber and placed on the frozen tundra only to be visited occasionally by a wandering Arctic traveler a century later.

These people who assisted the popular explorers in their endeavors to explore a new land spent their lives fending off bears and ravaging wolves, battling famines, and traveling in the Arctic in their perpetual search for game. They were humble individuals, fiercely independent and self reliant residents of the Arctic. Although they may not have fared well monetarily from their struggle living in the Arctic, they were rewarded with freedom, and an indescribable strength and strong will which are two characteristics that money cannot buy. And I am certain these forgotten men and women had traveled more miles in the Arctic than many of the most popular explorers ever dreamed of. Many of these folks that the explorers relied on for assistance and guidance include local natives as well as men and women from around the world, whom for one reason or another, took residence in the Arctic.

Often, while traveling on the Arctic coast, I have found frozen in the sand many century-old artifacts, like dog sleds, ship lumber, bottles, house logs, and rusted wood burning stoves. These items are evidence of the people who lived along the coast. Further proof exists in the photographs captured by individuals traveling through the region. However, as I travel in the mountains I am surprised that the same evidence of people isn’t found there. And there aren’t many historical records of the popular explorers venturing into the mountains either, and I don’t blame them. Traveling in the mountains is tedious, slow and extremely exhausting work. You can struggle all day and cover only five miles. Yet, on a few occasions I have found old tent sites and other artifacts high on windblown ridges in some of the most inhospitable mountainous regions. It’s my guess that these Arctic residents spent their long days in spring awaiting the migrating caribou on these ridges. I find it astounding that these folks traveled and made a living in this harsh mountain country as well as along the Arctic coast. To me, they were certainly the true explorers.

Photos and captions from the US Geological Survey Photographic Library.

Dan Sweeney and Shagavaichiak. Anglo-American Polar Expedition. Canning district, Northern Alaska region, Alaska. C. 1910.

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Native Eskimo. Okalisuk and puyuk (dog). Anglo-American Polar Expedition.district, Canning Northern Alaska region, Alaska. C. 1910.

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Ernest de Koven Leffingwell, in cabin, Flaxman Island. Anglo-American Polar Expedition. Canning district, Northern Alaska region, Alaska. C. 1910.

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Native Eskimos, Sheep hunters’ camp on the Canning River. Anglo-American Polar Expedition. Canning district, Northern Alaska region, Alaska. C. 1910.

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Triangulation signal erected over Astronomical Observatory Pier at Flaxman Island. Used from KUG Station 20 miles inland. It looks eccentric but was lined up O.K. for KUG. Anglo-American Polar Expedition. Canning district, Northern Alaska region, Alaska. C. 1910.

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Pete Bernard feeding his dogs at Collinson Point. Anglo-American Polar Expedition. Canning district, Northern Alaska region, Alaska. C. 1910.

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Sledding up Canning River in April. Anglo-American Polar Expedition. Canning district, Northern Alaska region, Alaska. C. 1910.

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Ernest de Koven Leffingwell (left), Captain Ejnar Mikkelsen (center) Dr. G. P. Howe (right). Anglo-American Polar Expedition. Canning district, Northern Alaska region, Alaska. C. 1906.

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Eskimo [native] summer camp on Arey Island. Anglo-American Polar Expedition. Canning district, Northern Alaska region, Alaska. C. 1908.

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Natives at Flaxman Island. Anglo-American Polar Expedition. Canning district, Northern Alaska region, Alaska. C. 1910.

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Behind The Scenes

Posted on August 5, 2012 by alaskanarcticexpeditions

Welcome, friends! You may have seen many photographs and videos of our expeditions on our website, Facebook and elsewhere on the internet credited to Angus Mill, and I’m sure some of you have often wondered whom this photographer/adventurer is that has followed me across the Arctic capturing some of these fantastic images of me and the dogs. Well, let me introduce you to the man behind the scenes - Angus Mill

Angus, capturing images of the dogs in their environment.

Here’s a shot I took of Angus last year at the beginning of his five week expedition with me and the team.

Here he is in front of his tent on a fine spring day.

Here’s a shot of Angus participating in the evening chores. Yes, that is dog crap he’s scraping off the bottom of the sleds. A must-do chore every evening!!

Gutting freshly harvested ptarmigan for dinner.

Setting up his tent.

Angus enjoying fried ptarmigan.

Thanks Angus!!

Notes From Joe: Making Tracks

Posted on May 22, 2011 by alaskanarcticexpeditions

Wolverines are full time residents of the high arctic and are real loners. They travel and hunt alone, covering large territories. Their main diet is ptarmigan in winter, but just like all predators they are opportunists and will kill dall sheep if they are around. They’re also scavengers and they like to get an easy meal once in awhile when the wolves make a kill. The tracks in the photo below are wolf tracks with a wolverine’s track over them.

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This photo shows a wolf trail on the high snow drift with multiple fox, wolverine and wolf tracks.

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Here’s a typical wolf and wolverine trail that leads to the top of the mountains where they lay and watch for game in the valleys.

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This wolf trail forks off, one going to the top of the mountain and the other goes through a mountain pass to another valley. The arctic is lean country in the winter and the wolf packs are very small and they have to cover a very large territory.

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A lone wolverine track b-lining straight for a willow patch to hunt for ptarmigan.

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Wolves have a tough time in deep snow as do other animals so they always hunt where the snow is relatively firm on the edges of snow drifts.

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A wolverine trail alongside my ski trail gives a perspective of the large sizes of these animals.

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Signs of a moose in peril. The moose tracks below show the animal sinking deep into the snow, searching for relief in shallower snow. This particular moose was killed by a pack of three wolves.

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The photo below is a wolverine den, probably belonging to a female getting ready for her upcoming newborns.

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These tracks are from a wolverine searching for ptarmigan.

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And what the heck, a wolverine has to have a chance to play too. Here you can see where the wolverine slid down the slope.

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This wolverine track leads high upon the mountain peaks. He was probably revisiting an old sheep kill sight and or hunting sheep.

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Ptarmigan tracks intertwined with a wolverine tracks.

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And these are my track makers…a pair of 6 foot long, custom built Iverson’s Snowshoes. They are a real lifesaver in deep snow. I’d never be able to explore the mountains without them.

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RaNdoM AlaSka

Posted on June 12, 2010 by alaskanarcticexpeditions

This is a starfish from Bristol Bay.

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Starfish are actually freaky little creatures. There are many different species and most have five arms, but some have up to 50. They have a microscopic eye at the end of each arm. A starfish’s mouth is on the underside of its body and food must pass through two stomachs. Some species have a highly questionable approach to dining. One of their stomachs can come out of their body and be inserted into a mussel or clam shell where they can digest the critter in the shell…outside of their own body. How bazaar is that?

At this point, you’re probably asking yourself why on earth I know anything about starfish digestion. Actually, I’m wondering that myself. The answer is that I take great pleasure in researching random, useless information. I don’t know why I do it. Maybe it’s the nerdy scientist in me.

Tanana Chief

Posted on May 30, 2010 by alaskanarcticexpeditions

Last night we went on our friends’ sternwheeler, the Tanana Chief, on the Chena River for a lovely dinner and adult beverages. The boat is beautiful as always and the food was absolutely YUM! If you live in the area or plan to visit Fairbanks, we highly recommend taking any of the cruises they have to offer. It’s peaceful and it’s a great way to see the Chena River.

We saw some great wildlife along the river.

There were a few ducks who entertained us splashing and swimming around.

A beaver also swam by the boat to say “hello.” He joined us for dinner in his own special way. He gathered some scrumptious willow branches, bellied up to the river bank and nibbled away. We were so close we could hear him chewing.